From expiry dates to ingredient lists, there’s more to sunscreen than just slathering it on before a day in the sun. With skin cancer rates on the rise, understanding the ins and outs of UV protection — and separating fact from fiction — is more important than ever.
The incidence of melanoma has risen by 32 percent in the UK over the past decade, with around 17,000 new cases of melanoma diagnosed each year. This makes melanoma one of the fastest-growing cancers in terms of diagnosis rates. Despite this, attitudes to tanning and sunscreen application signifies an alarming lack of understanding of the deadliest form of skin cancer.
Many of us continue to be bombarded with contradictory advice; some sources emphasise the necessity of high-SPF sunscreens, while others downplay their importance. Some promote often unproven methods of sun protection in the place of sunblock. Misinformation around sunscreen (of which Gen Z are uniquely susceptible) is proliferated on social media platforms like TikTok, and ranges from incorrect claims that sunscreen can cause cancer, to celebrities posting about how they don’t use sunscreen as it interferes with vitamin D absorption.
Furthermore, there’s the issue of price, with a survey revealing that 50% of people consider sunblock too expensive. In our podcast, Living with Melanoma, Melanoma Focus CEO Susanna Daniels reveals that 67 per cent of people surveyed said they would use more sunscreen if it was 20 per cent cheaper. 10 per cent said they didn’t use sunscreen because of the cost.”
The UK Chancellor Rachel Reeves has been called upon this week by the Liberal Democrats to cut VAT on high-factor sunscreens to make them more accessible for everyone.
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Here are 5 important things to know about sunscreen…
1. Expiry dates matter: Sunscreen doesn’t last forever. Most sunscreens have a shelf life of about three years. Using expired sunscreen can reduce its effectiveness, leaving you under-protected. Always check the expiration date, especially if it’s been sitting in your beach bag for a while. The British Skin Foundation (BSF) recommends discarding sunscreen after its expiration date, as it might not provide the protection listed on the bottle. This could lead to sunburns or skin damage, even when applied correctly.
“In the UK, on sun lotion bottles you’ll see an SPF — you’re looking for anything above SPF 30 — and there’ll be a star-rating usually on the back,” explains Susanna. “You’re looking for a four or five star rating, which equates to your UVA protection. There’s also a picture of a bottle being opened, and it might have ’12m’ on it — that indicates how long the sun lotion will last before it expires. 12m means it will expire after 12 months of opening the sunscreen. Anything that’s kept in light or heats up, might not last as long as that.”
2. Ingredient check: When choosing a sunscreen, it’s crucial to understand the ingredients. According to Melanoma Focus, broad-spectrum sunscreens with ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are ideal as they block both UVA and UVB rays. These ingredients are considered safe and effective, especially for sensitive skin or those concerned about chemical exposure.
As podcast guest and skin care nurse specialist Jaime Nobbs says, “the best sun cream is the one you will actually use”. You might have a preference based on the smell, texture, ingredients or price, the key thing is applying the correct amount of broad spectrum SPF30+ every two hours.
3. Price vs. quality: Is more expensive sunscreen better? Not necessarily. What’s important is the SPF rating and whether it provides broad-spectrum protection. Some pricier brands may offer added benefits like moisturisers or anti-aging ingredients, but that doesn’t make them any more effective at protecting your skin. Research from Consumer Reports indicates that some affordable sunscreens perform as well as, or even better than, their pricier counterparts.
4. Chemical vs. physical sunscreens: Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays, converting them into heat, while physical sunscreens block and scatter the rays. Physical sunscreens are often better for sensitive skin, but they can be less cosmetically elegant (read: thicker and whiter on the skin).
According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, physical sunscreens (with ingredients like zinc oxide) are less likely to cause irritation and start protecting immediately upon application. Chemical sunscreens need about 20 minutes to be absorbed and might be better for everyday use due to their lighter feel.
5. Reapply, reapply, reapply: Sunscreen doesn’t last all day. You should reapply every two hours, or more often if you’re swimming or sweating. Many people underestimate how much sunscreen they need. The American Academy of Dermatology emphasises using about an ounce (a shot glass full) of sunscreen for full body coverage. Failing to reapply can drastically reduce the sunscreen’s effectiveness, leaving your skin vulnerable to sun damage.
“It’s also about applying the right amount of sun lotion,” says Susanna. “Most people apply less than half of the amount of sun lotion on their body that they need to.”
Using SPF50 is not a substitute for applying sun cream less frequently, either. SPF50 sunscreen still needs to be applied as liberally, and used in combination with other sun protection measures including sun protective hats, protective clothing, sunglasses and shade.
“We certainly don’t recommend ‘once daily’ sunscreen,” adds Susanna. “In Australia, where they’ve got really strict sunscreen policies, they don’t allow any advertising of once daily [sun lotion application], so anything that stops you reapplying is not even permitted in Australia. That’s something we could really learn from.”
